Monday, October 18, 2010

Sarung Limar Pohon Seribu Hayat @ Tree Of Life Limar Sarung Circa 1910's




Ikat, or Ikkat, (Limar,) is the method of weaving that uses a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres.
The dye is applied prior to the threads being woven to create the final fabric pattern or design.
Double Ikat (Cindai or Patola,Pua Kumbu) is where both warp and the weft are resist-dyed prior to stringing on the loom. Traditionally, and still commonly, a back-strap loom is used, though any variant or modern loom may be used.

Brief History Of Limar



This is one of the 'Limar' Cloth from Kelantan,Malaysia circa 1910.'Limar' is known by the Malay Art world  as the single and double knotted thread or " Ikat" originated from the 'Patola' cloth from Gujarat.The intricate way of making this cloth in itself has been complimented with the outstanding beauty of the outcome,especially in vibrant of contrasting colors from the natural flora organics dye and the uniqueness of the patterns which has resulted this type of cloth being as the most precious cloth in the nobles world.

The word 'Limar' or 'limau' (lemon) derived from the pattern of lemon drops effects that formed on the cloth.The history of this textile could be started dating back to Malacca Sultanate Kingdom in 15th Century where it has became as one of the important Trading Port in the 'Spice Route' . It is believed that the "Gujarati" Merchants  brought their 'Patolas' ( Famous Double Ikat or known as Cindai:Chinde) to trade in the Malay Archipelago (Tanah Melayu and indonesia.)

After a while when the usage of this 'Patola' has become popular due to its enormous beauty,it has find its way in  becoming as part of the nobles wear when local cloth maker take pride in learning and mastered in making their own form of 'Patola' (Limar in Tanah Melayu- Kelantan,Terengganu and Kain Tenun Gerinsing and Limar Palembang in Indonesia ) using the same techniques,process but enriched its pattern to traditional Malay or local motives..Some even being complimented with gold thread (Limar Songket Palembang) to the custom order of the Nobles 

  Ethnography research from the material used and the norm of the nobles life which gathered from old Journals, books and old photos  had indicated that it was most probably started at the early of 19th Century).As 'Patola' was the relevant trend which exclusively worn by the nobles and the rich .this might had created the demand of making a high end local 'Patola' and along the way got its local name which is 'Limar" which exclusively caters for the Royals and the aristocrats in the Malay continents. 

Thus this 'Limar' in itself created its own identity although its origins from 'Patola' as it has take a different names ,forms and usages. technically it would best to described that the 'Patola' techniques has been extended in the making of 'Malay Patola 'or'Limar' in the Malay's world of textiles.